Day 325 Thursday, May 11, 2023
Safe Harbor Port Royal Landing Beaufort SC MM 539 to Charleston MM 470
We traveled about 69 miles today. You may have noticed that the mile marker numbers (MM) are decreasing as we head north on the Atlantic Intercoastal Waterway (AICW). Norfolk Virginia will mark MM 0. Marathon Florida was MM1194. Woah -- that's a lot of miles.
We left Beaufort at 6:50am for our 8 hour day. We had a calm start but lots of dew/condensation on the Strataglass windshield, making it a bit hard to see. The fly bridge helm doesn't have windshield wipers unless you count Jerry. LOL We met dolphins and traveled under the "Forrest Gump" bridge on to our first milestone. We needed to pass through Elliot Cut, another very shallow area. We needed to hit it at high tide Mission accomplished we were able to enjoy the beautiful houses on the point.
Look at the truck compared to the size of the marine lift.
Dolphins joined us as we cruised on to St. Helena's Inlet. With only half foot waves there we had a great crossing. Seas were favorable for Coosaw Cutoff too.
We continue traveling through marshy areas so the nasty horseflies continued to torture us.
We were followed by M/V Gazelle. The Captain was actually anchored waiting for the tide and other boats to follow into the narrow and shallow cut. The tables are now turned since this is the same boat that had been reported to the US Coast Guard a couple days ago for dangerous and unprofessional boating.
Speaking unprofessional -- we were cut off by a tow boat that pulled out in front of us. When he came up behind other boats he would honk his horn and never radio or respond to calls from other boats. We finally lost him when we got close to Charleston.
The Safe Harbor Charleston City Marina is huge. It has a 1500 foot fuel dock that is a Megadock that can accommodate 450 foot yachts.
The marina has 415 slips, a shuttle van that will bring you to town and pick you up and hosts a happy hour with beer, wine and pizza 2 times a week for boaters. The docks are being renovated but still in pretty good shape. It's a long walk to shore but they will pick you up in a golf cart if needed.
C'est Patou, Willsboro, NY -- our dock neighbor
We had barely docked when we were met by Colin from DeTour. They had just arrived and were docked between 2 mega yachts on the Megadock. Colin invited us to join them for a tour of Fort Sumter the next day.
We walked to shore and ended up at The Variety Store. Actually a restaurant we stayed and ate dinner. After our 8 hour day we didn't have the energy to keep looking for a restaurant or cook.
Day 326 Friday May 12, 2023
We met Wendy at Colin at the marina shuttle for a ride to Patriots Point where the ferry would bring us to Fort Sumter. We joined a full passenger ferry for the short ride to the Fort.
Volunteers helped to raise the US flag. Colin, a Canadian, was quick to volunteer.
A few facts about Fort Sumter:
- located in Charleston Harbor
- first encounter between Union and Confederate forces starting the Civil War April 12, 1861
- Union surrendered the Fort after 34 hours of battle
- only accessible by boat
- National Historic Monument
After Fort Sumter we wandered the city a bit and then decided on a horse drawn tour. Colin is a good sport since he is allergic to horses.
Spire on Basilica of St. John the Baptist Circular Church
This isn't the front door but if it's open visitors are welcome.
We had a great lunch at 82 Queen. I had Tomato Pie, Wendy and Jerry had the Gumbo and Colin had the Jambalaya. We all had the She-Crab soup. Everything was delicious.
Drinks at a patio bar and then the shuttle back to the marina for pizza at the marina docktails.
Day 327 Saturday, May 13, 2023
Jerry and I caught the shuttle and headed to the Vendue Fountain area by the Charlotte Harbor waterfront. The Vendue Fountain is more like a splash pad area where kids were having fun playing in the water. What we really wanted to see was the Pineapple Fountain right nearby. The Pineapple Fountain is a symbol of wealth and hospitality.
Can you see the kids swimming around the bottom of the fountain?
We walked the Waterfront Park and The Battery where canons were fired on Fort Sumter, then discovered Rainbow Row. Slaves couldn't read so colors were used to tell them where to bring cargo when ships were unloaded.
We visited the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon. The Exchange has been a commercial exchange, customs house, post office, city hall and military head quarters. The basement was used as a provost (prison).
We took a break from the heat at the Rusty Bull before we walked to church.
The Basilica of St. John the Baptist was celebrating the first year anniversary of Bishop Jacques Fabre-Jeune. You could tell that he was well liked and very personable.
Mother's Day weekend and graduations made it difficult to to get dinner reservations. We ended up back at 82 Queen and were not disappointed. Jerry had the braised beef short ribs with mashed potatoes and garlic haricots verts. I had a pork chop with roasted sweet potatoes, apple chutney and collard greens. It was my first time having collards and they were delicious.
Tomorrow on to Georgetown, SC. So much more to see in Charleston. We need to come back.
Leaving Charleston
DeTour
The trolley is actually a wagon with seats pulled by a Jeep! The tour was started by our guide's mom 30 years ago.
The plant on the fence is called a Resurrection plant. Its brown dried out leaves resurrect when it rains.
Shrimp boats
